Glenn Martens: Vanguard of the Modern Silhouette?

Three nuanced ensembles from Glenn Martens, shot by Luis Alberto Rodrigues. Showcasing his work across Diesel, Jean Paul Gaultier, and y/Project.

Martens’ rapid rise illustrates how hungry the industry is to anoint a new savior. He’s trying to bring back avant-garde experimentation to the high-fashion mainstream, after years of minimalism dominating luxury fashion.Yes, he modernizes Y/Project and Courrèges with a youthful energy. What I worry about is: does his seemingly recycled aesthetic lacking in true creativity? Wondering if he’s overhyped and underwhelming given the industry is too eager to coronate the next big thing before they are ready.

Drawing inspiration from the fluidity of architecture, Martens creates designs reminiscent of the natural mountainous vistas of his homeland. It comes as no surprise that he shares the podium with JW Anderson, another proponent sculptural fashion. Both trailblazers, Anderson leads LOEWE and JW Anderson, while Martens' indelible mark is felt across multiple maisons.

Manifesto of Martens' Aesthetics:

• Layered intricacies.

• Thoughtful twists.

• Bold prints.

• Precise folds and jagged edges.

• The art of the oversized and asymmetrical.

In a world obsessed with commodified luxury, Martens tactfully navigates. With a touch of pragmatism, he merges forward-thinking experiments from Y/Project with Diesel's vast outreach. The result? An exploration that satisfies both fashion elites and mass markets.

L'Artiste’s Choice?

Y/Project, under Martens, strikes a chord even in its offbeat notes. While some ensembles soar, others provoke thought, but each carries Martens' unmistakable signature. An echo of the late Yohan Serfaty's vision, Martens has ushered in a new era. He juxtaposes Serfaty's legacy with his lavish, fun, and slightly audacious style. Influenced by occidental aesthetics, Martens has iteratively evolved the brand, deftly playing with proportions, silhouettes, and fabrics.

Y/Project pulsates with a unique cadence. Sometimes it's harmoniously in sync, while occasionally it stumbles. But there's undeniable novelty. As aptly described by “Fashionlover4”, it's akin to a "fashion student's wet dream". While Yohan Serfaty laid its foundations, Martens has expanded its horizon with gender-fluid, enigmatic designs evocative of the iconic Rick Owens.

Resurgence of the Denim Giant

Diesel's renaissance under Martens is nothing short of remarkable. Martens dips into the brand's golden era of the '90s and early ‘00s, stirring nostalgia while redefining Diesel's modern identity. The brand's playful metamorphosis from "For Successful Living" to "For Sucsexful Living" post Martens' intervention is emblematic of his audacious touch.

Yet, as Martens flirts with Diesel's denim legacy, there are challenges. While the runway flaunts luxury, the racks sometimes reveal impractical flamboyance. The harmony between Diesel's essence and Martens' flair needs fine-tuning. But, given time, there's no doubt Martens will blend his experimental spirit with Diesel's rich denim history, offering fresh takes on classic staples. With a dash of patience and Martens at the helm, fashion enthusiasts worldwide can anticipate a reimagined denim dynasty. The future might be denim, and it's couture.

His exaggerated proportions and gender-bending styling cover familiar ground already charted by predecessors like Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and Raf Simons. But, unlike those designers’ radical conceptual garments, Martens’ oversized blazers and trench coat dresses are tame in comparison. Yes, his subversion of masculine and feminine codes challenges binaries. But in 2022, gender fluidity in fashion is practically mainstream. Younger talents like Harris Reed and Telfar Clemens are doing more to expand definitions of identity and expression through clothing.

Where Martens does excel is in his digital-print tailoring and knitwear. Martens once shared, "My design realm is vivacious, whimsical, and a tad provocative." He honors the brand’s essence while continually exploring new forms and dimensions, mirroring an artist rediscovering age-old hues. Pieces like the anatomical prints from the spring 1996 “Cyberbaba” collection exemplify his masterful reinvention. His pixelated and blurred suiting fabrics, often in bright hues, have a hyper-modern vibrancy. The asymmetrical color-blocked knits he designs are actually quite imaginative in their use of graphic color and texture. Martens clearly has an affinity for digitally manipulated textiles and colors. When applied to Y/Project's signature oversized tailoring and body-hugging knits, the results bring an edgy, hypermodern look to life. His custom fabrics point to the potential he has to develop a more distinct design identity.

Looks

Spring 24

I like how he’s redefining what wearability could look like. The issue I constantly face is when he doubles down on playing with the structure and color. It’s overwhelming and far from pleasing.

• Highlights:

  • I’ve fallen in love with the buttoned boot

Later end of the show consisted of fabrics that look like they’ve been paper-mache style dried immediately after the washer. I’m a fan of the tops, skirts, and pants in this texture. Including denim!

Fall 23

• This feels like the official incorporation of denim bleeding from Diesel into Y/Project’s work.

• Highlights:

  • Denim bleeding into other fabrics in a tasteful manner

Feels like not knowing where the clothes end and the shoes start